83rd St. between Broadway and Amsterdan      Something of a symbol of West Side gentrification, Café Lalo opened in 1988, before every Manhattan corner was dotted with a Starbucks. Since then it's become a trendy spot for Upper West Siders looking for good desserts and excellent coffee.      Café Lalo's entrance is a few steps up from a sidestreet between bustling Broadway and Amsterdam avenues. Cozy in the winter and breezy with tall wide-open windows in the summer, it's a good place to read a book or the paper, a European-style cafe, comfortable for couples or just people who like to be alone in the company of others.      This is where a nervous Kathleen Kelly (Meg Ryan) waits for her first in-the-flesh meeting with the mysterious Mr. NY152. next: The 91st St. Garden